6mm-Minis is Maksim-Smelchak's blog to discuss gaming, miniatures, books, movies, food, Israel, Judaism, life in general and other funny crud. My favorite scale of miniatures is 6mm, which is also called 1/285 or 1/300 scale. I enjoy many different kinds of games including ancients, Napoleonics, WWI, WWII, the Arab-Israeli conflict, Car Wars AKA Autoduel (a sort of crash'n'derby automobile combat game), 6mm Godzilla AKA Kaiju games, and science fiction games. I'm open to everything though!

Sunday, July 24, 2005

MINI WARGAMING: 6mm vs 15mm Napoleonics?


--- In GrandeArmee, "Thomas_Hilder" wrote:
Hi guys,
I am a newbie to Napoleonic gaming and am interested in GA.
I have checked a few other systems out and think GA offers the best of fast play, command, feel, etc.
The question I have is related to figure size. It appears that most GA armies are 6mm due to the scale, etc, but that there is a large amount of 15mm gamers due to other rule, personal preference, etc.
I personally prefer the look of 15mm and am wondering about anyone who has played both and how they "feel," look, etc.
What can people tell me?
Thanks for your help.

Hi Tom,

I'd like to start out by saying that I'm a big 6mm enthusiast and am known at TMP and several Yahoo E-groups as being one of the biggest 6mm miniature enthusiasts around.

I helped to rejuvenate this group to over a thousand members. The E-group can be found here:

To answer your question, I, of course, prefer 6mm, but can honestly admit that the both scales offer their pros and cons.


- The cost between the two is negligibly different.
- 6mm Napoleonics can be a little less expensive, but not very much cheaper.
- Of course, the cost of the figures depends on which rule set you are using.
- Napoleonic rule sets have a very large variety of basing standards and numbers of figures required per base. There is no standard for basing Napoleonic figures among the many different rule sets to my knowledge.

- 6mm is easier to paint using the dip method (Laying down a base coat and then using inks or washes), but 15mm is a larger scale and holds more detail.
- More detail is probably preferable for the Napoleonic Era, which is so well known for its wondrous colors.
- Personally speaking, I'll take ease of painting over a few more details and colors any day.
- Unless you have a pretty dedicated painter (Which the Napoleonic genre does seem to breed... ), most gamers seem to skip painting many of these details anyway.
- On counterpoint, the amount of time one would spend "detail" painting 6mm figures is probably only marginally less than the time one would spend painting 15mm Napoleonics miniatures. "Detail" painting is "detail" painting.

- 15mm Napoleonics have been a staple of Napoleonic miniatures gaming for quite some time.
- 6mm miniature are a much newer phenomenon for Napoleonic gaming.
- So, in other words, there are probably many more 15mm rather than 6mm Napoleonic armies running around in gamers' hands, but that's also strictly a local phenomenon based on your gaming community.
- It may sound odd, but in my area, the most commonly found Napoleonic armies are 28mm!
- I still prefer 6mm, but my local gamers play Napoleonics in 28mm. I own a 28mm Russian Napoleonic army for that reason (Although I like my several 6mm Napoleonic armies a whole lot better.).

- The rule set being used makes a huge difference is basing conventions as previously mentioned.
- However, many Napoleonic rule sets seem to use the same basing conventions for 6mm and 15mm figures.

- This is a category in which 6mm is very preferable in my eyes.
- 6mm terrain is much more storable and transportable than 15mm terrain.
- The biggest 6mm terrain pieces (Large churches, farms, etc.) will still probably fit in a shoe box, while large 15mm terrain pieces will probably require a very large box, which makes it that much more of a chore for you to lug your gaming accouterments to someplace other than the home field.
- Specific 6mm terrain pieces specifically intended for 6mm Napoleonic play are few (Timecast has some beautiful pieces though and Irregular makes a great La Hougement - hope I spelled that correctly... ).
- However, there are many MANY "European villages" made for WWII microarmor play and they look superb as Napoleonic terrain.

- Storing your miniatures in probably about the same for 6mm and 15mm miniatures although it is probably much easier to store 6mm miniatures.
- A case full of 6mm miniatures generally takes up less space and weighs less than a case full of a comparable 15mm Napoleonic miniatures.
- I'm no Spring chicken any longer, so a lighter case gives my old grumbling back an easier load. That's an important factor for me!

- Ultimately, the choice comes down to a personal preference when it comes to choosing between a 6mm and 15mm Napoleonic miniatures army.
- Being a 6mm miniatures enthusiast, I already had a large amount of terrain built and that, combined with the personal relationship I have with many 6mm miniature manufacturers made 6mm the choice for me.
- I think both scales (6mm & 15mm) are great although I advise against a 25mm Napoleonic army. It takes much more money and time to properly finish a 25mm Napoleonic army!



Notes regarding photos / pictures / videos: These are not all my images and videos. I am using various images and videos from around the web, mostly from public sources and/or private sources used with permission. I have tried to include only images and videos under public domain, creative commons, or fair use. If I have inadvertently violated any copyrights, please inform me and I will remove your image/s (if it is indeed an infringement).

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NOVELS: "Dune" by Frank Herbert.

Tas, 22nd 2005 July, 05:25 wrote:
It's a long story, but that movie got me into pic. It wasn't very good at all (as you know), but it led me to the book (to understand what the heck it was all about). As I was reading it, I got a flyer about some new game called Rogue Trader being released with cool Space Marines known as Angels of Death (who sounded like Sardaukar) - thus I bought RT, and so it led me, in turn, to other GW products and the rest is "Tas-manian Gaming History." The BBC Miniseries was much better, but I'll always have a soft spot for the Hollywood version. Even though it doesn't make sense unless you know the book! :)

Hi Tas,

I just finished rereading the Dune novel and have to say...

I was very disappointed in it. It is one of the few cases where I'd say the movie was better than the novel.

Herbert's prose is abominable. He could have easily cut Dune by fifty to a hundred pages and kept all of the plot arcs and removed so much of the superfluous pretension.

Also, his understanding of Middle Eastern cultures stinks. The Fremen are supposed to be based on Arab / Bedouin culture, but he clearly didn't understand either group. His Arab / Bedouin cultural characteristics are based on very crude and negatives stereotypes of both the Arabs and Bedouin. To my knowledge the only contact that Herbert ever made with either Arabs or Bedouin was through the sterile pages of a book and it shows.

I've come to the conclusion that Herbert was a few steps behind the scientologists.

That being said I loved the movie.


Notes regarding photos / pictures / videos: These are not all my images and videos. I am using various images and videos from around the web, mostly from public sources and/or private sources used with permission. I have tried to include only images and videos under public domain, creative commons, or fair use. If I have inadvertently violated any copyrights, please inform me and I will remove your image/s (if it is indeed an infringement).

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Sunday, July 17, 2005

MINI WARGAMING: Monster Scale - Taller Than A...

Hi Guys,

What I've discovered is that:

- If using human units, buildings and scenery, 2" to 4" (50-100mm) monsters seem to scale best with miniatures of the 1/285, 1/300, 5mm and 6mm scales.

- Practically speaking though, any miniature between 1" to 4" (25mm to 100mm) seem to work fine with a few smaller miniatures for spider swarms and the like.

- I have been basing all of my monsters on fender washers of these sizes:

- 3/4" for small swarm-type monsters...
- 1" for most 25mm scale figures...
- 1&1/4" for slightly larger figures...
- 2" for the larger 3" to 4" in height monsters...
- And occasionally a larger base for REALLY BIG monsters...


I'm still looking for a Staypuft Marshmallow man like the one from Ghostbusters...


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Thursday, July 14, 2005

HUMOUR: Happy Bastille Day!

Hi Everyone,

Happy Bastille Day!

A friend I know wrote this:

"Today to celebrate French Independence Day I plan to have some French toast with my French roast coffee and watch some movies from my favorite French actor Jean Reno. For lunch I will have a French Dip Sandwich with a side of (of course) French Fries. So go out today and show your love of the French by buying some Confrontation miniatures from you friendly neighborhood game store."
It works for me!


Notes regarding photos / pictures / videos: These are not all my images and videos. I am using various images and videos from around the web, mostly from public sources and/or private sources used with permission. I have tried to include only images and videos under public domain, creative commons, or fair use. If I have inadvertently violated any copyrights, please inform me and I will remove your image/s (if it is indeed an infringement).

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HUMOUR: The Many Uses of Vodka!

Hi Guys,

Without further ado, the many uses of Vodka:

1. To remove a bandage painlessly, saturate the bandage with vodka. The solvent dissolves the adhesive.

2. To clean the caulking around bathtubs and showers,fill a trigger-spray bottle with vodka, spray the caulking,let set 5 minutes and wash clean. The alcohol in the vodka kills mold and mildew.

3. To clean your eyeglasses, simply wipe the lenses with a soft, clean cloth dampened with vodka. The alcohol in the vodka cleans the glass and kills germs.

4. Prolong the life of razors by filling a cup with vodka and letting your safety razor blade soak in the alcohol after shaving. The vodka disinfects the blade and prevents rusting.

5. Spray vodka on vomit stains, scrub with a brush,then blot dry.

6. Using a cotton ball, apply vodka to your face as anastringent to cleanse the skin and tighten pores.

7. Add a splash of vodka to a 12-ounce bottle of shampoo. The alcohol cleanses the scalp, removes toxins from hair and stimulates the growth of healthy hair.

8. Fill a 16-ounce trigger-spray bottle and spraybees or wasps to kill them.

9. Pour 1/2 cup vodka and 1/2 cup water in a freezer bag and freeze for a slushy, reusable ice pack for aches,pain or black eyes...

10. Fill a clean, empty jar with freshly packed lavenderflowers. Fill the jar with vodka, seal the lid tightly, andset it in the sun for 3 days. Strain liquid, then apply thetincture to aches and pains.

11. Make your own mouthwash by mixing 9 tablespoonspowered cinnamon with 1 cup vodka. Seal in an airtightcontainer for 2 weeks. Strain through a coffee filter. Mix with warm water and rinse your mouth. (DON'T SWALLOW!)

12. Using a cotton swab, apply vodka to a cold sore tohelp it dry out.

13. If blister opens, pour vodka over the raw skin as alocal anesthetic that also disinfects the exposed dermis.

14. To treat dandruff, mix 1 cup vodka with 2 teaspoons crushed rosemary. Let sit 2 days, strain through a coffee filter, massage into your scalp and dry.

15. To treat an earache, put a few drops of vodka in your ear. Let sit for a few minutes, then drain. Vodka will kill the bacteria causing pain in your ear.

16. To relieve a fever, use a washcloth to rub vodka on your chest and back as a liniment.

17. To cure foot odor, wash your feet with vodka.

18. Vodka will disinfect and alleviate a jellyfish sting.

19. Pour vodka over an area affected with poison ivy to remove the urushiol oil from your skin.

20. Swish a shot of vodka over an aching tooth. Allow your gums to absorb some of the alcohol to numb the pain.

And, my personal favorite...

21. If all else fails, just turn the bottle upside-down and drink it. Then nothing else will matter anyway!

Have a great Thursday!


Notes regarding photos / pictures / videos: These are not all my images and videos. I am using various images and videos from around the web, mostly from public sources and/or private sources used with permission. I have tried to include only images and videos under public domain, creative commons, or fair use. If I have inadvertently violated any copyrights, please inform me and I will remove your image/s (if it is indeed an infringement).


Tuesday, July 12, 2005

NOVELS: "Gates of Fire" by Steven Pressfield.

Hi Guys,

I literally blew through "Gates of Fire" by Steven Pressfield. It took me just three days and was just as good as I remembered it from the first time I read it.

"Gates of Fire" is about the Battle of Thermopylae that took place in 480 BCE. In 480 BCE, a hand-picked force of three hundred Spartan warriors along with their auxilia and allied forces (Numbered around 5,000 combatants) took on the nearly two million troops of the Persion despot, Xerxes the Great, and brought the advance of the despot to a stop for nearly a week valiantly sacrificing their lives in an action which saved the Peloponesse (Greater Greece) and very likely saved democracy and modern society as we know it. Pressfield's prose is very engaging and he manages to bring the battles of history alive in a way that endears the protagonists to his reader and makes the reader want to learn more.

Amazon.com book reviews:

"Gates of Fire" is a great book and I highly recommend it.

Notes regarding photos / pictures / videos: These are not all my images and videos. I am using various images and videos from around the web, mostly from public sources and/or private sources used with permission. I have tried to include only images and videos under public domain, creative commons, or fair use. If I have inadvertently violated any copyrights, please inform me and I will remove your image/s (if it is indeed an infringement).

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Monday, July 11, 2005

GAMING NEWS: Collecting Armies?

Hi Dafrca,

Dafrca: I found this interesting, not good or bad, just interesting. As I am doing my recount of the Imperial Stuff, I realized I tended to go for the Iron Fist tactic with my Guard. Lots of Tanks, Super Heavies, Mech Infantry, and such. Small numbers of the RR, snipers, and other lighter style formations.

But when it came to my 15mm stuff, it was like a 180 degree flip. Mostly light Infantry, droppable troops and equipment, and overall lighter style formations. Very little in the way of “Heavy” armor (well not counting my OGRE). It was like as I moved worked on the two collections, I was following two very
different tactical ways of thought.

*** So it made me wonder when you all build an army, do you just collect or do you formulate a basic tactic and buy to that?***
Hi Dafrca,

I've found now that I prefer themed armies, but I general modify my theme a little to encompass existing models. Adding a theme to an army really helps to make it happen. It gives directions and keeps some kind of plan or inspiration around.

My Epic-Armageddon Jopalli IG force, for instance, is designed to be a mechanized force and has very little heavy armor. The Jopallis were also designed to use mostly proxy models and a lot of anti-armor troops with support weapons. Even their Thud Guns, Tarantulas and Mole Mortars have used proxy models so far.

After playing the army for awhile, I start adding units to make the force more effective rules-wise.

My Star Wars Hoth force, for instance, is a very theme-oriented army, but as I play with them, I can see myself adding in other vehicles, troop types and characters that never appeared in the movies. The original Dirtside II conversion I found for the Battle of Hoth had a number of non-canon vehicles. I'd definitely like to include some non-orthodox equipment and troops in the future, but right now, I'm concentrating on getting the movie canon forces ready.


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Sunday, July 10, 2005

MODELLING: 6mm Wildlife = Toys and Trinkets!

--- In 6mm_Miniatures, Ady Arnold wrote:
Hi all,
I'm after a little help trying to find some 6mm scale wildlife, in particular Arctic /Antarctic creatures, for an 'Evil Penguin Army of Doom!'
I'm planning the army for the 6mm Hordes Of Things game.
*** Anyone have any suggestions as to where I may get figs for it from? ***
Hi Ady,

The first thing to do when looking for 6mm scale minis is not be too concerned with scale... many "6mm" miniatures are actually closer to 8mm or even (Alas, oh my!) 10mm. Being a little flexible with scale really helps out the selection.

I've been working on a 6mm (Really 10mm) miniature gaming set to run a Star Wars Battle of Hoth game. I eventually settled on the 10mm scale because the model availibility was better in this range. Most of the vehicles (Rebel Snowspeeders, AT-ATs, etc.) are still scaled much closer to 6mm than 10mm, but I digress...

Secondly, don't think that you can use items designed as miniatures. Toys and trinkets are very foten just as good as miniatures and often much less expensive. Charms (those items for lady's bracelets), animals toys for doll houses and even cereal item premiums often do the job.

Bears are easy to come by.
- I see little bear trinkets (charms) at the bead shop my girlfriend goes to.
- The Warmaster line also has 10mm bears availible for their Kislev army.

Penguins are a little harder.
- There used to be a board game I occasionally see in second hand shops/thrift stores that has little penguins just about the right side.
- I can't remember the name of the game though.
- You might want to settle for an army of "GIANT PENGUINS" so you can use slightly larger plastic toys for your army!

Fish (sea life) are easy to come by.
- There are lots of little plastic toy sets that come with these as well as toy trinkets.
- You can find all kinds of fish and other types of sealife including crustacians, octopi, whales, etc.

Lots of other animals are easy to come by as well. I see African animals all of the time. I also see many of the more common temperate zone animals.

As a final note, you should take a look at the HOTT galleries at The Stronghold web site. I seem to recall that they have an Inuit (Eskimo) army there that would be a good source of inspiration for you.


This post was taken from the Yahoo E-group:


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Wednesday, July 06, 2005

MODELLING: 6mm Miniature Bases for Epic-Armageddon!

Hi Everyone,

I've discovered that I don't care for basing vehicles either.


However, I like the storage advantages of having based vehicles so I've compromised:

- I attach a steel plate under vehicles now to store them magnetically.

- Some vehicles like plastic Land Raiders have very little base to glue the metal plate to so I glue two plastic pieces underneath and then glue the metal plate down.

- Metal vehicle miniatures also greatly benefit from this mounting system.

- An additional advantage is that I can always fit a vehicle's steel base to a larger magnetic base if I ever change my mind and decide I want vehicle bases.

- Plastic Land Raiders and Rhinos store much more securely then.

- Land Raiders require a 5/8" x 5/8" (Roughly 15mm x 15mm) base underneath them.

- Rhinos, Predators, Whirlwinds and related vehicles take a 1/2" x 1/2" base underneath them.


I also stopped glueing down turrets and now mount a magnet under turret attachment points and glue a small round cut-out of steel paper (Or a small magnet... ) under turrets.

- This makes all of my turrets interchangeable.

- It's also very inexpensive.

- Using rare-earth magnets makes the turrets attach very securely for those worried about lisng turrets.

- The other cool thing about this method is that turrets can be turned for photo shoots.


I like the Flames of War (FOW) bases, but they tend to be a bit large for vehicles in my opinion.

FOW bases come in three sizes:

- 1&1/4" x 1" (32mm x 25mm)

- 1&1/4" x 2" (32mm x 50mm)

- 2" x 2&1/2" (50mm x 65mm)



GAMING NEWS: "The Next War" Session Two! (3 July 2005)

Hi Guys,


On July 3rd, Jon Compton held a big Fourth of July party and asked all of us to get together to play our second session of "The Next War."

We started around 11:30am (although I got there closer to 1:00pm) and finished the Soviet gorund phase of turn one. Next session, we will finish the NATO part of turn one and FINALLY be completely done with turn one!

Part of the reason the game is taking so long is that we are all learning how the rules work.

We finished around 3:30pm and called the session a wrap. We went downstairs (Jon's game roon is upstairs... ) and got on with the Fourth of July party. We all had a good time and there were plenty of burgers, hot dogs and every kind of victual for everyone. We set off some fire works in the evening and went home.

Several of us (Including some British and US citizens) had a long discussion about about social services as well as the nature and future of socialized medicine in the US and abroad.

The next session will be this upcoming Sunday (10 July 2005).


Next War is truly massive game and here's a link to a review of it:



The sides of the game are:

- Scott
(Soviet Marshal of the Baltic sector)
- Mike AKA Mikos
(Soviet Marshal of the Central & Northern Europe sectors)
- Rich
(Soviet Marshal of the Southern Europe sector)

- Jon
(Supreme Commanding General of All NATO forces)
- Vince
(General of US NATO forces)
- Maksim
(General of German, British & Canadian NATO forces)



NATO was not able to take their ground phase this turn (not enough time... ) so only the USSR players moved their ground forces. Next gaming session, we will finish the NATO player's ground phase and end turn one.

The USSR ground forces made five major thrusts:

1. Soviet Movement in Southern Europe
- Marshal Rich made some very agressive moves to threaten Italy and Southern Europe.
- Southern Europe is held by a very tenuous defense of weaker Italian troops with some US reinforcement.

2. Soviet Thrust Against Austria
- Marshal Mikos moved several Soviet divisions very agressively in a thrust to make a breakthrough near the Austrian city of Wien in Central Europe.
- So far, the Austrians have held, but the Russian steamroller is persistent.

3. Soviet Movement to Crush the US Bulwark of NATO (Marburg Thrust)
- Marshal Mikos made some very ambitious and aggressive to crush US components of NATO in a thrust towards Marburg, Germany.
- Marshal Mikos very agressively moved his forward supply depots (FSBs) forward as well as support elements (Engineers, air defense cadre, etc.) in a big chain behind his forward combat units.
- He succeeds in making several breakthroughs punching a big hole through NATO lines.
- One of Marshal Mikos' biggest accomplishments is the uteerly brutal, quick and efficient taking of Berlin. NATO forces didn't stand a chance.

4. Northern Diversionary Thrust Towards Hamburg
- Marshal Mikos uses a number of armored and mechanized unit in a thrust towards the German city of Hamburg.
- There are no major victories achieved by Soviet forces, but the losses are likewise not very costly for their key result of keeping NATO forces occupied.
- The actions must be diversionary, but it still ties down NATO troops that are vitally needed elsewhere.

5. Baltic Spearpoint Aimed at Hannover
- The most feared Soviet Marshal, Marshal Scott, known for his intense aggression, pushes his units forward through NATO lines in a relentless push that exhausts his units to the limits of their endurance.
- A combination of mechanized thrusts and helibourne assaults brings Soviet forces to the city outskirts of Hannover.
- Denmark is one of NATO's Achilles Heels with many valuable sea and airports. If Marshal Scott can push this attack then he will remove many of NATO's most valuable staging areas for the war in Northern Europe.
- NATO generals fear Marshal Scott!


NATO Commentary on Soviet Movement:
- The NATO generals were surprised that the Soviet Forces didn't extend themselves further.
- The NATO generals would have driven every unit to exhaustion tieing down as many NATO units as possible ina n effort to keep NATO units from forming into larger and more dangerous division-size units from the smaller battalions in which NATO left its units.

- All three commanding NATO generals were very surprised at the Marburg thrust. Marshal Mikos left his units sticking out in one huge finger thrust into the NATO apple pie.
- Unfortunately, almost all of the combat elements are concentrated at the tip of the finger with juicy support elements (Engineers, artillery, air defense cadre, etc.) lieing with their flanks exposed.
- With any luck, NATO units can cut this thrust off and decimate Marshal Mikos' units wholesale.

- The rest of NATO forces will take holding actions and concentrate on bringing NATO forces into better defensive salients.



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MINI WARGAMING: The Demise of Epic-Armageddon in Northern California?

Hi Guys,


I'm unhappy to say that it looks like Epic-Armageddon is very possibly dead in my area.

I went by Hobby Monkey, a local gaming shop, yesterday evening and met my good friend, Eric-Chern there, author of the Epic Army Card site and... he has had it with Epic.

Eric and I were the biggest local supporters of the game. Now, it looks like it's down to me.

My friend Chuck is getting ready to move as well in the Fall.

That leaves a very small conclave of Bay Area E-A players and that's about it.

There are still some players in the Los Angleles / Southern California area, but it looks like all of the changes at Specialist Games and the decision to not publish hard copy books anymore has driven off the local E-A fan base.


There are three games locally that are dominating the market:

- Flames of War
(A 15mm WWII skirmish game from New Zealand.)

- War Machine
(A 28mm VSF skirmish game with giant robots and magic from Privateer Press in the USA.)

- A Call to Arms
(A Bayblon-5 starship combat game from Mongoose Publishing in the UK.)


Eric is a huge B-5 fan so he has naturally gone over to the "Call to Arms" game.


28mm 40k is all but dead in Sacramento although it is still being played somewhat at Great Escape Games, another hobby shop in town. GW's games are taking a big hit here.

I'm seeing local bulletin boards getting swamped with notices of 28mm 40k armies and other GW miniatures for sale.

An interesting occurrence is that Necromunda is making a local comeback with at least two Sacramento gaming clubs running campaigns that I know about.



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Sunday, July 03, 2005

MODELLING: Work Station or Not!

Hi Guys,

I wish I could say that I have a proper work area, but I don't.

I primarily use three areas for modelling and hobby work:

- I have very small desk in my bedroom, that when cleared off functions as a work surface.
- My grandfather who was a carpenter and upholsterer made it from wood and it measure about 2'x1.5'...
- I have it covered with a spare board I fit to cut the top that I cover with newspaper and a custom-cut model cutting matte when I work with sharp and pointy tools.
- I've painted a very large amount of figures at this little desk, but it is covered with detritus at the moment.

- My roommate and I dod not have a proper kitchen table... we use a fold-up table that I bought several years ago for a steal.
- It is covered with a plastic tablecloth and a nice sheet for the end where we eat.
- The far end of the table stores our radio, some CDs and a small GW shipping box or two of my models for when I work on them.
- I seem to do most of my assembling, glueing and finishing of models here.

- I use the outside porch for spraypainting AKA priming and messy terrain work.
- I've made several terrain projects out on the porch as well as a ton of priming.
- I have made two terrain projects in the near past: the Mars Forgeworld boards and the Agriworld boards.

And, in the future (I plan to move later this Summer), I hope to dedicate the entire kitchen table to a modelling area and buy a proper kitchen table. Until then, I'm stuck using the ramshackle work areas that I presently use.


I don't have any photos of my work areas at the moment.


Saturday, July 02, 2005

FILM: I saw the Spielburg WOTW film today!

Hi Everyone,

I saw the Spielburg WOTW film today and LOVED it! Diana was a bit spooked, but I really liked the Martians and their tripods.

This review by Tas is spot on!

REVIEW: WAR OF THE WORLDS (Spielburg version)

Tas: Well I went last night with Lynette for my Birthday... Overall, I enjoyed it. The Tripods are AWESOME as are all of the special effects in their Hollywood glory as you might expect. A few creepy instances of nasty stuff happening just off screen and out of sight really fills in the blanks with the worst that your imagination can provide.

I agree that the Tripods were simply AWESOME! I also really liked how much of the really creepy stuff that Spielburg left off screen.

Suggestion is powerful part of a good scare and our imaginations will always be able to provide a scarier imagine than one possible on the screen. In this regard the film reminded me very much of a M. Night Shyamalan film. I just finished watching Shyamalan's "Signs" just a week or too back and it compared very well with this new Spielburg WOTW film.

Tas: Much more of the traditional Wells material was included than I expected. The artilleryman character is included (Although he is a paramedic... ), the collecting of people into baskets on the Tripods and blood injections needed by Martians as well as the red weed.
I have to diagree with you here, Tas. The paramedic takes the place of the vicar character and not the artilleryman. The red weed and the Martian need for blood were impressively displayed by the new Spielburg WOTW film!

Tas: The storyline is a "Survivor's" story: a man trying to survive with his two children as civilization crumbles. It's that simple! It starts rather hum-drummish, which I though was the worst part, but as soon as the Tripods appear with their heat rays, the film comes out with a
I didn't mind the slow start because it really set the pace for the audience to be surprised when the time came...

The heat rays were very cool... really more of a very high powered electrical arc or discharge...

*** But... why did the heat rays disintegrate the bodies of those struck and not their clothing? ***

Tas: Now, there is Thunderchilde scene, chaps...
I was a bit disappointed by the Thunderchilde scene.

The "UUUUUULLLLLLLLLLLAAAAAAAA" was most impressive. Very eerie!

Tas: Overall, I thought it was a good visual movie with more of the traditional WOTW aspects than I had thought there would be. The film definitely had more of the H.G. Wells storyline than the 1953 George Pal movie had. The worst aspect of the film was a lack of storyline depth. The best aspect of the film were the outstanding special effects (And we all could have guessed
that... )!
I agree with you 100%.

Tas: I look forward to hearing what others think of the film!

Review by: Tas.


I liked it too, Tas!


Notes regarding photos / pictures / videos: These are not all my images and videos. I am using various images and videos from around the web, mostly from public sources and/or private sources used with permission. I have tried to include only images and videos under public domain, creative commons, or fair use. If I have inadvertently violated any copyrights, please inform me and I will remove your image/s (if it is indeed an infringement).

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Friday, July 01, 2005

GAMING NEWS: Ground Combat?

Hi Guys,

I've been looking at various Star Trek sites trying to figure out how ground combat is fought in the Star Trek universe.







*** Does anyone know how ground combat is fought in the Star Trek universe? ***


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MODELLING: 6mm Miniature Bases!

Lextar,01 2005 July,07:54

*** Just wondering what people think about mixing circle and square bases within one army? ***

I did this with my Eldar Fire Dragon Troupe. Originally all the vehicles were going to be on circle bases, but I switched the wave serpents to square base so they stood next to each other on the shelf without wasting any space. So the only one left is the command Falcon.

I'm thinking of doing something similiar with my Tau. Troops on Square bases and the tans on circle ones.

*** What do people think? ***

Hi Lextar and Gang,

I don't have a problem mixing base types or sizes.

In fact, I have done this many times. I use the following with regularity for older Epic editions or the current E-A:

SQUARE [20mmx20mm or roughly 3/4"x3/4"]:
- I still use the 20mmx20mm 1rst and 2nd edition sqaure bases although I prefer the 3rd edition rectangular ones.
- Metal shims that can be glued under these bases to make them magnetic are readily availible.
RECTANGLE [12.5mmx40mm]:
- I love the 3rd edition 12.5mmx40mm rectangular bases.
- The only bad thing about them is that they are such a funky size. Noone makes a metal base you can glue under the E-40k rectangle so I have to custom make them so that my infantry stands can be stored magnetically. This is a pain.
- I'm thinking of switching to 15mmx40mm bases since this is a standard DBA base size and is readily availible.

RECTANGLE [20mmx30mm]:
- I have custom-made and cut these pieces for smaller artillery pieces such as Thud guns and the like when the 20mmx20mm was too small and the 20mmx40mm was too big.
- Cutting plasticard is easy but time consuming.

RECTANGLE [20mmx40mm]:
- The Warmaster 20mmx40mm bases are wonderful.
- Metal shims that can be glued under these bases to make them magnetic are readily availible.
- 20mmx40mm bases are also a standard DBA base size and are readily availible.

CIRCLE [3/4" (Roughly 20mm) and 1" (Roughly 25mm)]:
- This is the newest kind of base I have been using and I really like using circles.
- I use two sizes primarily: 3/4" (Roughly 20mm) and 1" (Roughly 25mm).
- I purchase fender washers in this size and cover up the middle hole with a piece of Scotch tape or small paper.
- 3/4" fender washers make great pieces for individual pieces such as robots or jet bikes and also are fabulous for character pieces such as leaders or even for indicdual units such as snipers or missile teams.
- 1" circles are good for regular infantry units and are a great size on which to base E-A Tyranids.